Vintage Fabric

A Brief history. How has it changed over the decades?

World War 1 changed the nation’s attitude toward lifestyles. The rich and fashionable no longer needed personal seamstresses. Those whose fortunes survived the Depression intact turned exclusively to Poiret, Vionnet, Chanel and the following generations of designers for their clothing. The department store now became the domain of the blue collar and middle to upper middle classes. The maid or seamstress who a decade earlier would not have been able to afford to shop at fabric emporiums now enjoyed the luxury of purchasing inexpensive yard goods at the best of stores.

The 1920’s was the beginning of the unencumbered woman whose unshackled body could at last romp freely in loose and skimpy styles. Hemlines started just above the ankles, shortened to the knee by mid-decade and returned to about lower mid-calf by the decade’s end. But woman was forever unrestricted in movement and fashion fabrics reflected this emancipation. By mid-decade with its short shimmy dress and indoor/outdoor loungewear and underwear, clingy fabrics were the new fashion statement. By the end of the decade frocks were very feminine, two piece and form fitting. Sheers such as Normandy voile, lawn, organdy and dimity were vogue, and improvements in rayon technology made figured rayons a hit for summer frocks.

In the 1930’s styles were sophisticated and elegant, changing to a more sporty look by 1939. Fabrics were wider, dyes more stable and vibrant. The continued improvements in rayon made the 30s a decade of experiment, spinning and blending rayon in every conceivable way. Flat rayon/ cotton crepe and rayon/cotton alpaca were early 30s fashion favorites. Weaving variations on cottons produced some startling effects. Some looked and felt like wool in bold diagonal plaids, tweeds and thick/thin mesh weaves. Others were plain and lacy cotton knits and plain and brushed meshes in gorgeous shades of coral and spring green; dress poplins of plain weave variations in lime, tangerine, faded blue and turquoise prints. New rayons were a ruff crepe and a washable rayon/cotton chamois for frocks; improved rayon taffetas, twilled satins and a rayon/cotton alpaca especially for loungewear and lingerie.

Heading into 1940-41, hemlines remained the same and styles more casual and perky. Quadriga cloth was popular in a variety of textures and designs including seersucker, polka dots, stripes and checks. World War II changed everything. With most every company in the country geared to war-time production plus rationing, the textile industry was heavily affected including the delay of introducing commercial nylon. Wool, too, was scarce, being reserved for military use. To conserve fabric, hemlines rose about one and a half inches above the knee and dress styles were a little on the skimpy side. Housedresses, zippered or buttoned down the front, slack suits with snoods for the factory workplace and midriffs with shorts or slacks or short skirts called playsuits were hot items. Many patterns were whimsical to lighten the war mood such as cute stuffed animals and modernistic and tropical flowers.

Toward 1944 into 1945 there was an erratic mixture of every design imaginable. Diagonals and geometrics gave way to more relaxed florals and patterns, squares became softer and were combined with figurals, stripes were either bold roman or soft florals. While Bemburg rayon and silk continued enjoying popularity, anything cotton and two-piece summer suit dresses of nubby poplin were the fashion statements of the moment. The post war years saw a return to normalcy and abundant goods. The style was the new look with long hemlines, big shoulders, cap sleeves, side drapes and peplums and the indispensible black cocktail dress. While luxurious wools were enthusiastically embraced, rayon was king. Florals, stripes and black were the leaders.

The 50’s were a glamorous decade where the hemline stayed around mid-calf. The effects of the new look continued to dominate during the first part. Trademarks increased daily as manufacturers developed new ways to protect, enhance and market fabric. It was still a world of natural fibres, rayon included, with nylon at last becoming respectable. As full and circular skirts were predominant, fashion fabrics continued to reflect elegance. Cotton became more daring with metallic prints, colorful denim stripes, sporty poplins and bold shantung weaves. But the big news was the offsprings of nylon – Dacron, Orlon, Arnel. These man-made fibers infinitely increased the ability for blending and variety and paved the way for a revolution in the textile field.